The EJ25D was used from 1996-1999 in the Subaru Impreza (1998) Legacy/Outback (1996-1999) and the Subaru Forester). This engine was very popular – it produced a tremendous amount of power given its compact design and light weight. EJ25D’s are very fuel efficient. The upsides of this engine also caused some problems.

Dealing with Heat

The engine has a very wide bore (diameter of the cylinders) and a very short stroke (distance the pistons travel “up and down” in the cylinder). This means there is not much metal to absorb the heat the thing produces, so the cooling system must work flawlessly. Many shops report that Subaru radiators just don’t hold up well over time, and that they are too cheap to “rod out.” This means that if the radiator isn’t working properly, you’re better off getting a new radiator than working on your old one.

The head gasket is also considered problematic on the EJ25D. This engine seeps liquid out of the engine through the head gasket at times. Subaru has a chemical you can put in the engine which often times will fix the problem if it is applied early enough. If it isn’t dealt with, sufficient pressure can’t be maintained in the cooling system and the head gasket will “blow.” At that time, getting a replacement engine is a better option than having your mechanic fix the cylinder head.

EJ25D Replacement Options: Remanufactured, Rebuilt, or Used

You have a few options if your head gasket is blown on your EJ25D.

The first option you have is to buy a remanufactured cylinder head. A true remanufactured cylinder head is expensive and might not fix your problem if the block on your EJ25D is cracked. A good mechanic will “magnaflux” your block before putting the head on, but many shops don’t. If the block is cracked, you need an entirely different engine assembly. There are many different remanufacturers of cylinder heads. All good remanufacturers will magnaflux their heads to check for cracks and pressure check the head once the remanufacturing process is complete. Their process will use a seat and guide machine which produces a 3 angle seat and high quality valve seals. When the remanufacturing process is done, a remanufactured head will meet or exceed OEM standards. If you need an entire engine, a remanufactured Subaru engine is a viable option.

You could also buy a “rebuilt” head. A rebuilt head is typically, in this author’s opinion, a waste of money since the rebuild only fixes the point of failure, leaving many worn components in place. Longevity is highly questionable.

Finally, you can buy a used cylinder head or a used engine. This can be a good option if you can find an engine or head with “low miles,” since such an engine would have low wear and be “close to new.” Such an engine might not always look pretty, but it will almost always give a cost to value ratio that is very much in its favor. Tack on a lower labor cost and you’ll find that your total savings on a used Subaru engine make it very worthwhile.

Research your supplier

Whether you buy remanufactured, rebuilt, or used, there are two types of suppliers: great and horrible. Research your supplier before you buy! Check out BBB.com (the Better Business Bureau) to see how many complaints your potential supplier has, and how long they’ve been in business. If the company just opened be wary – there are many fly by night companies that open, screw enough people to get themselves in treble, close, and then open under another name. I talk to consumers everyday who tell me stories in tears that are so sad they make you want to cry with them. If the consumer would have just spent five minutes on bbb.com, they would have never thrown their money away!

Also, understand your supplier’s warranty. Many warranties require you to follow specific guidelines which are in place for your protection. If you don’t follow these guidelines you can damage the engine and void your warranty. Good suppliers will happily explain their warranty!

J. W. McBride has worked in the automotive industry for five years. He loves to save customers money by helping them find used parts. He particularly enjoys dealing with used Subaru Engines.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J._W._McBride

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Like it or not the vehicles of today are far more advanced in every way. Functions do not happen simply by mechanical means. There are computers on board which control everything from air flow to the amount of gas which is being used. Having the right balance will make it where the engine can run as efficiently as possible.

If your vehicle has not been to the dealership in the past 2-5 years, or your current repair shop has not offered to check your vehicle for a software update, then you have about an 80% chance of requiring an update. Ask this simple question the next time you see your mechanic, “does your shop have the ability to update my vehicles software if needed?” If they have the famous deer in the headlights look on their face and say no, then you may need to look elsewhere for a repair shop with current training and up to date tools required to properly service your vehicle and keep you safe.

I know a lot of technicians and repair shops that have never performed an update, stating “all that does is mess up the computer, and causes future problems”. They could not be further from the truth. The manufacturers would not spend time and money on correcting their faulty software if they did not need to. With parts becoming more reliable, and vehicles designed to be virtually maintenance free of tune ups until 90,000 miles, we are seeing the need of parts replacement declining as fast as software updates rise.

Recently there were customer complaints of their rear brakes locking up during certain stops, causing loss of vehicle control, which could result in a crash without warning. The vehicle manufacturer inspected the entire braking system, paying special attention to the rear brakes, and found no reason for the brakes to fail. They eventually found the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) computer on about 50,600 vehicles with software programmed to lock up the rear brakes during certain stops. The “Fix” for the Recall consisted of a software update; no special or replacement parts were needed.

As you can see, even cars which are not being enhanced to get more performance are in need of software updates to correct faulty programming. Correcting safety concerns is likely the most important reason to have your vehicle checked for updates. Other issues fixed by software updates may include repairs to the check engine light, transmissions, alternators, and even belt “chirp” noises.

If you are looking for straightforward advice, on all you automotive needs, and would like to deal with people who truly care about you and your vehicle, go to http://www.advancedtireandrepair.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tommy_Nickelson

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When you hear an occasional rattle that becomes persistent with time, identifying the cause can be problematic. In this article, we’ll describe a few reasons why your car, truck, or SUV begins to groan as it ages.

What Causes Rattling And Squeaking?

Rattling and squeaking can come from a number of sources. In some cases, the problem is under the dashboard. Other times, it’s in the brakes. Depending on the age of your car, the noise might be caused by your suspension. The first step in determining the cause is to isolate the general source. Do you hear the rattle under your seat? That suggests the suspension. Is squeaking coming from the rear of your vehicle next to a tire? If so, your brake pads may be worn. Does the noise occur only when driving over large bumps? Your shocks might be failing.

Tracking Down Leaks

Have you ever been annoyed by a persistent air leak while driving with your windows up? Ever heard a tedious drip while driving in rainy weather? Both types of leaks are incredibly difficult to find. You’ll need a friend to help you locate their source.

With water leaks, have a friend remain within the cab of your vehicle while you hose it down from outside. If the leak is visible inside the interior, your friend should be able to easily locate it (a flashlight helps). If water is leaking within the door, he or she can at least isolate it.

Identifying the source of air leaks requires using a special device while driving. Ask your friend to accompany you while you take your vehicle on the highway. Then, ask him or her to use the leak-identification tool while you pilot your car.

Finding The Source Of Vibrations

Vibrations can come from your car’s chassis, drivetrain, suspension, or engine. Those caused by your chassis are difficult to identify because the location seems to migrate over time. By contrast, the drivetrain will send a clear signal by vibrating your entire automobile.

The most common sources of vibrations are the suspension and the tires. Vibrating tires suggest a balancing issue. On the other hand, if you feel shaking in the steering wheel, that suggests the arm bushings, strut bearings, shocks, or joints may be failing.

If you notice rattling, squeaking, leaks, or vibrations, have them fixed. They will not resolve themselves. Instead, they will continue to worsen, leaving you with a higher repair bill in the future

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